Monday, April 21, 2008

Last full day today




Surfed a reef in the middle of Hanalei bay this AM by myself (and a turtle); overhead in the sets. That's about as good as it gets. Checked out Wailua falls later. Meanwhile, down at Kalipaki (photos), the surf looked micro and playful. Surfed there last week; a 30 year old flight attendant drowned there yesterday. How?

Tomorrow evening, after cleaning this place, we fly to LAX/SFO/ACV, red-eye style.

It's been fun here: not too long, not too short. It'll be good to see the pets and even better to get Sasha back on her routine. Yes, it's good to keep them flexible, but man, can I get an "amen" for predictable nap times? Glory be.

Back to Humboldt at 10:30 AM local time on Tuesday.

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Hawaiian Sovereignty: Haole-style


Since arriving, we've heard a steady trickle of talk related to Hawaiian sovereignty. Some of it has been direct (there's a good radio show devoted to it), but most of it has been indirect: a comment here, a bumper sticker there. That's their original flag (not "state flag").

Without going into the whole history, it's your basic colonial imperial story:

In 1893, Queen Lydia Liliuokalani was deposed in a coup organized by Sanford Dole, (the pineapple/banana guy is on the left, see how comfortable everyone in the photo looks?), and supported by US marines. Five years later the islands were annexed. American, Japanese, Chinese, Portugese, and other groups populated the island, crowding the indigenous culture. Statehood followed in 1959, and the Hawaiian-ness of the island has slipped ever since.

So, yeah, that's exxxtreme Manifest Destiny for you. What makes it different from the US's treatment of Natives on the mainland? I don't want to get into "Whose injustice is greater," because there's more than enough to go around. Suffice to say that the relative recency, isolation, and cultural unity of the Hawaiian people are a unique situation.

Can the sovereignty movement take off? It seems to be gathering followers. Apparently there's a Hawaiian government of sorts that's been meeting formally. There are a series of blogs that follow it, and again, bumper stickers, posters, slogans, anthems, etc...it's all in place.

I asked our neighbor here about it. He said that most people who are into it are sort of like voter-fraud conpiracy nuts: right about everything, fighting the good fight, but basically kooky. (Our neighbor, by the way, has lived here since '62 and is pro-sovereignty in a "Sure, that'd be nice" way.)

He also said that any such independence would be fraught with problems, not the least of which that Hawaiian-ness, for now, has racial undertones. Also, the islands depend on the mainland's insfrastructure, food, and funding.

Sara and I have been trying to think of a single reason that Hawaiian sovereignty shouldn't happen, and we've come up with crap: world maps and US flags have to be redesigned, Hawaii might just get taken over by China eventually anyway, economic collapse would lower local quality of life.

On the other, much larger hand, freedom and self-determination are pretty sweet. Same for preserving cultural identity.

It does seem that a lot of these grievances are in the past, and there's not much you can do about that. As for current oppression, who knows. All I know is that, since we've been here, I've noticed that white people aren't doing undesirable jobs (gardener, street sweeper, line cook, busser, etc).

Could total sovereignty work? How would it happen? Given the low profile on the mainland, total independence looks impossible. Maybe they'll shoot for a Puerto Rico deal. The Dalai Lama's only asking for cultural autonomy for Tibet from China, so who knows what Hawaiian leaders think they can/should get. (Speaking of Tibet, there are so many comparisons, I'm not even going list them.)

Either way, are we missing something, or is there a moral wrong waiting to be righted?

So, yeah. Food for thought from some dumb tourists who've been here maybe a month, collectively.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Waimea Hiking, Kohana Plantation

We took a side trip a few days ago down to the south/west side of the island, which is leeward and essentially arid. The Waimea canyon was our first stop, and yeah, it does basically look like a smaller Grand Canyon.

The next stop was Koke'e State Park, which is the inland access point for the Na Pali coast. It's not unlike the Lost Coast: too steep, remote, and isolated to develop. Big mountains drop down to the coastline. We hiked around in there, and the going was slightly tough. All in all, it was the most incredible trail we have ever hiked, ever. It's that awesome.

After that, we hit up some shave ice, and then it was off to surf Pakala. Someone tipped me that Pakala was the longest left in the world. I don't know about all that, but it was a long, clean, workable wall that A-framed overhead and just kept going. Lots of goofy footers in the water here.

Today was the first day on the whole trip that I didn't catch an overhead wave. The north shore is showing a small swell tomorrow, which means I'll probably try SUP surfing. Today didn't disappoint, though. We took a train through an old plantation, fed some tiny pigs, and went to the beach. Snorkeling rules. I saw an octopus!

Anyway, we keep kicking around more interesting stuff, like the pros/cons of hotel accomodation, Hawaiian sovereignty, and island culture, but somehow we don't blog it. Maybe later. The sovereignty is particularly interesting to us.

By the way, I'm warming up to Jahwaiian music.







Monday, April 14, 2008

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Kauai: Field Notes

So we've been driving around, listening to local radio, which has been fun. I'd recommend it to anyone when traveling. Or whenever. Anyway.

There's a whole station of nothing but "Island Music" called "Surf 95.9." I think Joel Agnew (who lives on Maui) works for the radio group that owns it, because I swear I heard his voice on a PSA.

Right now you're like "Island music? Lots of ukelele?" You wish.
Oh my. That music is terrible. Tear-uh-bull.

What's it sound like? Let's start with a pop-reggae base, then:

1. Dumb the lyrical vocabulary down to about the 8th grade (strike 1)
2. Use synthesized horns that do not sound remotely like horns (strike 2)
3. Remove any hint of real percussion, replace with mid-80s drum machines (strike 5)

Jah-waiian, they call it, and it hates subtlety as much as it hates graphic design. Besides rote calls for revolution and one-love, you can enjoy love songs and party jams, with song titles like "Love Song" and "Party Jam."

OK, I guess it's only as terrible as pop on the mainland (New Country Music, I'm looking at you). Just with, like, worse production value and lyrics that scrape out new depths of meaninglessness:

"Haleakala, the temple of the sun....
"We're just having fun. No need to run, no need to packa gun."
(Repeat 12 times)

Oh man.
Right then, I bet the songwriter was like "Let's see....I've got two things that end in 'un' and I need a third..." and didn't rightfully reject the very first idea.

Like anything, it's just another example of the mainstream giving you the dumbest version. There was a killer show on KKCR that had more traditional island music, songs of sovereignty, and some scratchy recordings of old-timey Hawaiian stuff that was truly compelling.

To Jah-waiian's credit, it is relentlessly positive and upbeat, which is preferrable to bad-boy anthems. Also in the "plus" column is that at least it has a local feel. And the station has a strong colloquial sound with Pidgin-accented DJs. It's ad breaks sound full, so it's got support. So, more power to them. We're listening, right?


____

Before leaving, I brought a hat from Target. Twelve bucks to keep skin cancer at bay? Fair enough. Yes, I knew it looked really touristy. Sara has now ruled that it looks *far* too lame, and historically, she often let me take "lame" right up to the limit with nary a complaint.

So, while she was with Sasha, I bought a new hat. Upon seeing it, Sara has ruled against that hat, too. She said it was a "jerkface" hat. Tourist or jerkface, I should stop buying hats. I'm not sure which one is worse.

You make the call:












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Sasha can now say "Bellybutton" and show you where it is. She can also climb up to the couch herself.

Sara and Sasha finally got some sunny beach time (it's been cloudy/windy/rainy/sunny). I think a little sunburn might have occurred.

Sasha's whole sleeping and eating routine has been pretty rough. Her Girl Interrupted shenanigans just led to a screaming fit at 10pm, which is two hours past her regular bedtime. Supposedly, since we're not killing her, we're making her stronger?

_____

If someone said, "You must eat your way to the bottom of this bathtub full of creamy, crunchy Moana Loa macadamia nuts," there would be zero hesitation on my part. Who doesn't love those nuts?

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Kauai: Just The Facts

  • Lodging: Townhouse in Princeville, North Shore Kauai
  • Price: Free
  • What This Place Kicks: Ass
  • Example Set By It's Owner: Inspiring
  • Times Locked Out Accidentally: 1
  • Attitude: Aloha
  • Weather: More clouds than sun, with some super-intense rain
  • Flash Floods Escaped: 1
  • Amt. Of Rain Leaked Into Rental Car Via Surf-Rack Straps: Approx. 3 Cups
  • Surf Sessions: 3 1/2, in as many days
  • Board: 9'6 Hap Jacobs epoxy noserider
  • Noserides: 3
  • Mustache Rides: 0
  • Swell: NW 6 @ 12, E wind (offshore)
  • Shark Advisories This Week: 1
  • Shark Advisories This Decade: 1
  • Sasha Sleeping Pattern: Erratic
  • Sara and Mike Sleeping Pattern: See above
  • Most Reliable Pancake: Banana w/ Macadamia Nuts
  • Wild Rooster Count: Unknown
  • Closest 6o+ Half-Deaf Groovy Surfer/Diver: Next door
  • Location of Skunky Odor: See above
  • Hottest Trend on the Water: Stand-Up Paddle Surfing
  • Worst Thing Since Surf Leashes (According To Codgers in the Lineup): See Above
  • Radio Highlight: KKCR (Think tropical KMUD)
  • Live Music Highlight: Melama Pono Allstars' saw-player
  • Sasha Lowlight: Mike allowing the usually free-standing baby-framepack to topple over, face-first, in the sand with Sasha strapped in it
  • Sasha Highlight: Flirting with chickens and catching her first wave
  • Plans: Zero
  • Chilling Level (Expressed as a Guitar Amp Setting): 11
  • Number Of Perfectly Good But Empty Waves: Unknown