Normally, a 2-and-a-half-foot wave is something you'd not even waste gas on looking at. The forecast was micro, the wind was nil, and the beach was empty.
Turns out there was a little juice behind the swell, which was a clean W pulse. Minus tide, the water was glassy, the waves were waist-high in the sets, and it was just one of those days where you sit outside the lineup in a state of exaltation. Zeke caught some rights and lefts, and I worked on some off-the-lip floaters, 360s, and other shortboarder baloney that normally I'd never be caught dead attempting. Also, the added danger of a rumored shark sighting two days before just added to it.
I'm just sayin', it was epic and tiny simultaneously. (Although we did break my latest mantra: "Don't look, just go.")
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Lastly, I'm finising up on the first episode of my first-ever temporary side gig. This syndicated public radio show (300+ stations in 9 countries) lost their post-production engineer and needed someone to get them through until they find a permanent replacement. So far, so good. Gary Melton would be favorably impressed with their lack of plosives, EQ, aesthetically-pleasing crossfades, etc.
1 comment:
details...i need details about this shark sighting.
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